LOOKBOOK - by Erik Cesla

If Saturn is now a lapsed god, once presiding over time, hours, and transition, the planet that bears his name remains vividly present, still holding its place as the solar system’s most mesmerizing body, encircled by its legendary rings of debris, fragments, and suspended dust. Those rings offer a perfect image of time itself, never fully gone, only broken apart into traces that continue to orbit, visible yet forever out of reach. These are the traces GARDOUCH gathers, studies, and reshapes into garments that act as mediums, capable of moving backward through time while giving form to a personal and intimate interpretation of memory. Each season opens up a new field of sociological and topographical excavation, bringing forth clothes that carry a past reduced to ruins, then reawakened through contemporary form.

The first two collections turned toward Rémy Guerra’s own childhood. The third shifts the focus to another foundational memory, that of his grandfather, with whom he shared a singular bond from an early age. The son of Spanish immigrants, his grandfather grew up between the South West of France and the Pyrenees, where he spent his holidays. As the mineral axis of his memory, this mountain range quietly anchors the collection. At once imposing and magnetic, it stands for leisure, for childhood, and for a longing tied to a lost Spain, deeply felt despite never being fully known. Trades, pastimes, settings, and an entire social landscape, everything in Les Anneaux de Saturne revolves around these mountains.

The collection unfolds as an imagined conversation between Rémy and his grandfather as a child, the two of them exchanging toys, memories, and fixations. Through this play of reflection, Rémy summons and reinterprets the world of a little boy growing up in the 1950s.

Guignol appears, along with the immaculate clothes reserved for weddings or first communions, and the polished Sunday shoes. Sport also plays a central role, from football to rugby, omnipresent in the South West, with its worn polos and coarse shorts. There are also the Tour de France days, awaited by the roadside in the Pyrenees. Those same winding roads seemed, in the imagination of a young boy, to lead toward a more buried and elusive Spanish memory, hazy perhaps, but still very real. Elements of Spanish folklore, especially from the world of bullfighting, therefore surface throughout the collection. They are never quoted outright, but translated, displaced, and filtered through a contemporary lens before being absorbed into GARDOUCH’s own visual language.

The toys of the period also emerge, among them little lead soldiers, echoes of a world still shaped by the aftermath of war. Les Anneaux de Saturne embraces and reinterprets a particular form of elegance, that of the 1950s, when haute couture was once again radiating outward and reaching every corner of France through the newly expanding women’s and popular press. Clean cuts, composed silhouettes, the impeccable suits worn by Rémy’s grandfather, alongside couture dresses and coats, all of it recalls a desired wardrobe, one admired, imitated, and adapted across every social class in the Western world of the 1950s.

Les Anneaux de Saturne is a collection about transmission, and about the layering of time. A constellation of memories that are neither frozen nor simply nostalgic, but recomposed and brought back into motion. A childhood that was not Rémy’s, yet becomes his through clothing. A past that continues to orbit the present, just as Saturn’s rings orbit the planet itself, made of fragments, ruins, and a beauty that endures.